Desert bus back to Liuyuan. Always a fight for ticket. Three dusty a number of hours. Train to Lanzhou. 800 miles along Gansu-Qinghai mountainous national boundaries. More black desert, then yellow earth. Jaiyaguan fort at the limit of the Ming empire. Overnight by train. Country changed. Mountain pass, green rolling hills and stepped fields. Wheat harvest during. Straw dollies like children at assembly. Houses still of rammed air. Lanzhou a thriving industrial in-town. Thirty hours of travel. Walk by Yellow River.

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